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(已翻译)Lesson 5 - Rock Climbing Training, Climbing Dynamically

本帖最后由 steven 于 2009-10-22 16:27 编辑

Rock Climbers Should Learn to Dyno & Use Climbing Dynos Effectively

Learning to climb more dynamically can improve climbing performance. This article covers why to dyno and how to improve climbing dyno technique/dynamic climbing ability.

While some rock climbers take to dynamic climbing relatively naturally, for other climbers,learning to climb dynamically proves challenging. However, the ability to climb dynamically is an important skill for rock climbers to master if they are interested in maximizing rock climbing performance. Rock climbers can use a number of different climbing training exercises, including those described in this article, to learn how to climb more dynamically.


Why Learn How to Dyno for Climbing?
Being able to dyno orto climb dynamically can improve climbing performance. Sometimes, a dynamic climbing movement is actually the only solution to performing a particular series of rock climbing movements. Other times, using a climbing dyno allows the rock climber to bypass a much more technically difficult section of rock climbing, thereby saving energy. And sometimes, a last-second dynamic movement makes the difference between falling off of a rock climb versus successfully completing it.

Climbing Dyno Exercise#1: Watch Other Rock Climbers Who Are Good at Climbing Dynos
One of the best ways for a rock climber to begin understanding the correct motion used to complete a successful climbing dyno or dynamic movement is to become a keen observer of other rock climbers. Simply analyze how a good “dyno-er” executes a climbing dyno, and then attempt to copy that climber’s movement. It’s especially helpful to enlist a climbing partner to provide feedback, too.


Climbing Dyno Exercise#2: Start with Small Pops and Jumps
Learning how to climb dynamically can be incredibly frustrating if the rock climber starts by trying to perform climbing dynos that are too advanced. It’s best to start out by creating single, small dynamic moves in the gym with a climbing partner who also wants to work on dynamic climbing movement.
The dynamic climbing moves can either involve “popping” one hand dynamically from one handhold to the next handhold, or by performing small jumps (in which the feet come off)between good handholds. The idea is to develop an understanding of the timing and movement required to perform dynamic climbing moves, and then to gradually increase the distance of the pops and jumps as the movement becomes more familiar.

Climbing Dyno Exercise#3: Use a Campus Board
Using the campus board can help improve a climber’s timing and strength for performing dynamic climbing movements. A basic beginner exercise involves matching hands on the board’s biggest, lowest rung. Move one hand up to the next rung (see photo C,below), and then match. Then, if possible, drop one hand back down to the first rung, and then the other — but let go if it feels like the muscles can’t support the motion of moving back down.
Please note that it’s important to be very careful when using a campus board, since it can be injury provoking if used inappropriately or too soon in a climber’s training. Work into campusing slowly and consider asking for help from a more seasoned climber or a member of the climbing gym staff on appropriate campus board form.

Climbing Dyno Exercise#4: Jumping Training
Since much of climbing dynamically — especially dynoing — involves pushing off hard with the feet and generating leg power in jumping, it’s appropriate to incorporate some jumping training into training for dynamic rock climbing. The aim is not to build up huge leg muscles, but rather, to build up confidence and to improve ability level in leaping as high as possible.
First, jog in place for a minute or two to warm up the legs. Rest for a couple minutes, and then perform three sets of 10 jumps, reaching up with alternate hands on each jump(as if reaching for a climbing hold). Attempt to improve the height reached with each leap. Then, perform three sets of 10 hops on one leg on each side,attempting to reach as high as possible with each hop.


Climbing Dyno Exercise#5: Tap Training
Choose two starting handholds and one starting foothold (see photo D, below). Establish a goal handhold to reach with one hand that’s far enough away that the rock climber can’t reach it statically. Then, the climber should attempt to reach up and tap(or grab) the hold (photo E), using dynamic climbing movement, and then return to the starting position (back to photo D). Repeat five times on each side.


Using Climbing Dynos Effectively to Improve Climbing Performance
By training for climbing more dynamically, the rock climber will start to incorporate dynamic climbing and even climbing dynos into his or her regular climbing pattern. Having this climbing technique available will make it possible at times to bypass a more difficult climbing sequence with one big move. Being able to climb dynamically will also enable the rock climber to throw for a climbing hold should a climbing dyno be the only viable solution.
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本帖最后由 steven 于 2009-10-22 16:33 编辑

...have a nice training ;)
Ciao

第五课--攀岩训练之动态攀岩

攀岩者应该学习掌握和有效利用动态攀岩技术

学习如何更动态的攀爬可以提高攀岩的能力。本文包含了为什么要用动态和如何提高攀岩的动态技术/动态攀岩能力。

有些攀岩者对学习动态攀爬相当的自然、容易,而对有些人来说却相当的有挑战性。不过,如果你对极限能力攀岩很感兴趣的话,动态攀爬是一项需要熟练掌握的重要技术。攀岩者可以利用很多不同是攀岩训练练习,包括本文描述的方法来学习如何更动态的攀爬。

为什么要学习如何动态攀岩?
掌握动态或动态攀岩可以提高攀岩能力。有时候一个动态的动作正好是进行一系列特定攀岩动作的唯一方法。另一些时候,利用动态攀岩可以让攀岩者避开一个需要更难技术动作的区域,从而节省体力。更有些时候,最后时刻的一个动态动作决定了是冲坠失败,还是成功完攀线路。

动态攀岩练习#1:观察擅于动态攀岩的攀岩者攀爬
攀岩者如何开始了解成功完成动态或动态攀岩的正确动作,最好的方法之一就是要善于观察其他攀岩者。只要分析一下一个好的“动态者”进行动态时的动作,然后努力模仿他的动作。请攀岩伙伴给你提相应的反馈意见也特别有帮助。

动态攀岩练习#2:从小动态和跳跃开始
学习动态攀岩时,如果一开始就尝试太高的难度动作,会有很大的挫折感。最好是和也想练习动态的伙伴一起,在室内岩馆从单个小的动态动作开始练习。
动态动作可以是包含了单手从一个岩点到另外一个岩点的小动态,或是在好点之间的小跳动作(双脚必须离开)。这主要是让你了解进行动态攀岩要求的时机和动作,等熟悉了动态动作后,再慢慢加大小动态和跳跃的距离。

动态攀岩练习#3:利用木条指力板练习
利用木条指力板练习可以帮助提高攀岩者做动态攀岩动作的时机把握和力量。最基本的初级练习可以从在板上最大、最底下的木条上进行双手合并练习开始。一只手向上抓住上一层木条(见下图C),然后另一只手也向上抓,双手合并。接着,如果可能的话,一只手向下抓住第一层木条,然后另一只手也下来--但是如果觉得肌肉无法承受向下的动作,应该马上放弃。
请注意,利用木条指力板练习时,要非常的小心。因为如果使用不当或过早地使用木条指力板练习,会很容易受伤。利用木条指力板要慢慢地练习,量力而行,或者请教老手及岩馆的工作人员在造型合适的板上练习。

动态攀岩练习#4:跳跃训练
大多数动态攀岩--特别是动态动作--都要双脚发力跳起,因此很合适在动态攀岩练习中加入一些跳跃练习。目的不是增大腿部肌肉,而是建立信心和尽量提高跳跃的高度。
首先,适当地慢跑一两分钟做一下双腿热身。休息几分钟,然后做310次的跳跃练习,每次跳跃双手轮流向上够(就像够上方的岩点一样)。每跳都够得尽量高。接着每边做310次的单脚跳,每跳都跳得尽量高。

动态攀岩练习#5:拍点训练
2个起始手点和一个起始脚点(见下图D)。确定远处一个单手静态够不着的目标手点。然后,用动态动作尽量努力往上拍(或抓)那个手点(图E),再回到起始的位置(回到图D的姿势)。每边每次重复5分钟。

有效利用攀岩动态动作来提高攀岩能力

通过动态攀岩的训练,攀岩者将逐渐开始把动态攀岩动作,甚至是动态动作运用到日常的攀爬方式中。掌握了这个技术将让你只用一个大幅度的动作就可以避开更难的一系列攀岩动作。动态攀岩的能力可以让你飞向只有用动态动作才能够到着的岩点。
0910080935ffaa8296675a7666.jpg
A: 学习动态来提高攀岩能力
B: 攀岩者正准备做一个动态动作
C: 动态攀岩的训练:木条指力板
D: 准备进行拍点训练
E: 拍向上方的手点动作

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Fly higher!guys{:3_48:}

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Can I fly higher and mor far ? I can :lol ,thanks Fede & Steven .

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