转帖：2009各品牌新出攀岩鞋预览！ 攀岩, 转帖, 品牌, 预览

steven

转自攀岩最爱：http://www.panyancn.com/bbs/read.php?tid=15202  作者：fish

Acopa JB

$155

Ideal Uses: Crack/face. All-day or multi-pitch.
Bottom Line: Comfortable high-top. Excellent for edging and jamming.

steven

Acopa Legend

$159.90

Ideal Uses: All-around trad, beginner to expert.
Bottom Line: Stiff, solid shoe for cracks/edging.

steven

Boreal Blade

$139

Ideal Uses: Vertical faces to super steeps.
Bottom Line: Excellent edging/tech-face shoe, especially once broken in.

steven

Boreal Sol $99 Ideal Uses: Multi-pitch, all-day comfort. Cracks, edging. Bottom Line: Above average on slabby to slightly overhanging rock. Comfortable.

steven

Edelrid Raven

$130

Ideal Uses: Hard redpoints, super steeps.
Bottom Line: Subtle performer with an adjustable, new-school closure.

steven

Edelrid Tornado $110 Ideal Uses: Faces and edging, from slab to just past vertical. Bottom Line: Performance all-arounder with a Euro flair.

steven

Evolv Optimus Prime

$125

Ideal Uses: Every angle from vertical to horizontal, on rock and plastic.
Bottom Line: Excellent heel and toe hooking. Vacuum fit for wide, high-volume feet.

steven

Evolv Royale

$79

Ideal Uses: Beginners, all-day comfort, moderate multi-pitch.
Bottom Line: Great price for a starter shoe. Not performance oriented.

steven

Five Ten Project $144.95 Ideal Uses: Super-steeps, boulders, gym. Bottom Line: Exceptionally sensitive steep specialist. Too soft for face climbs.

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Five Ten Copperhead $124.95 Ideal Uses: Cracks — all shapes/sizes, trad. Bottom Line: Premium crack-specific shoe, average at everything else.

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La Sportiva Speedster

$132

Ideal Uses: Steep bouldering, cavey sport, gym.
Bottom Line: Extremely sensitive slipper for high-end overhanging climbs.

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La Sportiva TC Pro $170 Ideal Uses: Granite and trad of all kinds. Bottom Line: High-performance trad shoe that excels at edging and cracks.

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Mad Rock Con-Cept $99.95 Ideal Uses: Technical faces, steep routes, boulders, plastic — nearly everything. Bottom Line: Comfortable, high-performance shoe at a great price.

steven

Mad Rock Mugen Tech

$89.95

Ideal Uses: Technical face, edging, steeps.
Bottom Line: Precise on small footholds, excellent heel cup, inexpensive.

steven

Mammut Goblin $129.95 Ideal Uses: Steep bouldering, sport, gym. Bottom Line: High-performing Velcro for steep, hard climbing.