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(已翻译)Lesson 3 - Stretches for Rock Climbers, When/Why to Stretch

本帖最后由 steven 于 2009-9-30 00:13 编辑

The Benefits of Regular Stretching for Improved Climbing Performance  


Regular stretching can improve rock climbing performance. Learn the benefits of stretching, when to stretch for climbing, and five specific climbing stretching exercises.
Despite scientific evidence supporting the benefits of regular stretching, rock climbers often fail to take advantage of stretching to improve their climbing performance. In this article, learn exactly why to stretch for rock climbing, the best time to stretch for climbing, and five specific stretching exercises with particular relevance for rock climbers.


Why to Stretch for Rock Climbing
Studies have shown that people who follow strength training workouts with stretching exercises can gain almost 20 percent more strength than those who only strength train. Additionally, rock climbers who stretch regularly can develop a greater range of motion and active flexibility (such as high-stepping to a climbing foot hold), enabling them to better reach and utilize critical climbing hand holds and foot holds.

The Best Time to Do Stretches for Climbers
The old idea that stretching prior to exercise prevents injuries has largely been discredited by a number of studies. Instead, simply doing a light warm-up to get muscles primed for rock climbing is suggested, followed by stretching after the rock climbing session or climbing training session has been completed. Try to allot 20 minutes to half an hour after each rock climbing session for climbing stretching exercises to bolster strength and range of motion/active flexibility.

Simple Climbing Stretching Exercises
Below, find five descriptions of easy rock climbing stretches, accompanied by photographs, of the many potential stretches for climbers that can help improve rock climbing performance.
•    The High-Step Stretch works active flexibility and range of motion for a critical rock climbing move. Start by trying to bring the foot up to a surface at or near waist level without assistance. Then, when the foot is on the surface, hold the stretch for 30 seconds (see Photo A). Repeat on the other side.
•    The Forearm Stretch stretches out forearms and fingers (see Photo B). Try to hold the stretch for 15-30 seconds. Vary the stretch by taking each finger individually, then gently pulling it back and holding, as well as turning hands under to stretch the wrists/forearms in the other direction.
•    The Kick-Out Stretch (Photo C), much like the High-Step Stretch, works active flexibility with a straight leg, which helps the rock climber more easily reach footholds that are far away. Just like the High-Step Stretch, kick the leg up to a surface near waist level (as high as possible without strain), and then hold the stretch for 30 seconds on each side.
•    The Chest-Opening Stretch (Photo D) helps combat the commonly seen climber-hunchback posture by stretching out chest muscles while simultaneously stretching out numerous arm and shoulder muscles as well. Again, strive to hold the stretch for 30 seconds.
•    The Achilles Stretch (Photo E) not only stretches the Achilles tendon, but also, stretches out abs, lower back, triceps, and shoulder muscles, targeting a number of muscle groups in a cat-like stretch. Hold for 30 seconds per side.  

Stretch Regularly to Improve Climbing Performance
Studies have demonstrated that the benefits of regular stretching following a strength-building session include greater strength gains as well as an increased range of motion—both of which are keys to improved rock climbing performance. Start creating a climbing stretching routine with the five stretches for climbers explained above and pictured below.

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2009-9-17 20:22
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本帖最后由 steven 于 2009-9-30 16:05 编辑

ahaha......I have to read this article and try to do some exercise ;P




第三课--针对攀岩者的拉筋,什么时候/为什么要拉筋

定期拉筋对提高攀岩能力的益处



定期拉筋可以提高攀岩能力。学习并掌握拉筋的好处,什么时候拉筋和以下五种具体的拉筋练习。
尽管科学已经证明了定期拉筋的益处,但是攀岩者经常忽视了拉筋可以提高攀岩能力的重要性。在本文中,你可以正确地学习为什么要进行拉筋,拉筋的最佳时间和五种具体针对攀岩者的拉筋练习。

为什么要拉筋
研究表明,比起只进行力量训练的人,在力量训练中加入拉筋练习的人可以多增加近20%的力量。此外,定期拉筋的攀岩者可以获得更大的动作幅度空间和身体灵活性(如上高脚),更容易抓到和利用关键的手点和脚点。

攀岩者最佳的拉筋时间
众多实验证明原来运动前拉筋可以预防受伤的老观念是不足信的。代之我们建议在攀岩前做一些轻松的简单运动来热身,使肌肉适应攀岩的强度。然后在完成攀岩或攀岩训练后进行拉筋。在每次攀岩或攀岩训练后,花20-30分钟的时间进行拉筋训练,以增进力量和动作幅度空间/身体灵活性。

简单的攀岩拉筋练习
以下是五种带有图解的简单攀岩拉筋练习,及多种可以帮助提高攀岩能力的潜在拉筋活动。
•    高抬腿拉筋对要求身体灵活性和动作幅度空间的关键性攀岩动作很有帮助。先在没有任何帮助的情况下,把脚抬到靠近腰部的桌面上,接着在脚踩住桌面后,保持30秒(见图A)。然后换另外一只脚做相同的动作。
•    前臂拉筋可以拉伸前臂和手指的肌腱(见图B)。保持拉伸15-30秒的时间。也可以单独抓住每根手指,然后向后拉并保持住,同时手向下转动,让手腕和前臂向不同方向拉伸。
•    踢腿拉筋(图C),和高抬腿很相似,主要用伸直腿的方法锻炼身体灵活性,使攀岩者可以更容易地踩到远处的脚点。和高抬腿一样,踢腿将腿放到接近腰部的桌面上(在不绷紧的情况下,尽量的高),保持住30秒。然后换另一边。
•    扩胸拉筋(图D)通过拉伸胸肌以及肩膀和手臂的肌肉群,可以防止常见的攀岩者驼背现象。同样的,努力保持30秒。
•    阿基里斯式拉筋(图E)不仅可以拉伸跟腱,而且可以用猫式拉伸针对一系列的肌肉群,拉伸腹部、下背、三头肌和肩膀的肌肉。每边保持30秒。

定期拉筋以提高攀岩能力
研究证明定期进行拉筋,会有一个力量的增长周期,包括大幅的力量增长和逐渐扩大的动作幅度空间--这两项都是提高攀岩能力的重要条件。根据以上五种攀岩拉筋练习和以下的例图,开始制定你的拉筋训练吧。
090917202257bd75486ef05863.jpg
2009-9-30 00:10


A: 高抬腿拉筋
B: 前臂拉筋
C: 针对身体灵活性的踢腿拉筋
D: 针对胸部、手臂和肩膀的拉筋
E: 做这个动作时,手臂向上伸直,身体向下弯

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Fede, what part of the body does "abs" means in following paragraph?

•    The Achilles Stretch (Photo E) not only stretches the Achilles tendon, but also, stretches out abs, lower back, triceps, and shoulder muscles, targeting a number of muscle groups in a cat-like stretch. Hold for 30 seconds per side.

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啊。。。。。安昨天晚上在家无聊,于是把上面的内容翻译得相当搞笑。家里是没有网络的,本想今天拷贝过来发的,后来去了医院看病,就忘记拷贝了~嘿嘿...

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Great! Not only me doing the job.

If you don't mind, please do the rest 5 lessons.:lol

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abs....abdominal    :P  

See you soon!
Ciao

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Thanks.

have fun in Malaysia!
Ciao

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